Douglas Kent, SPAB Technical Secretary, looks at those humble, oft-forgotten
but all-important links between rain and drain - gutters and downpipes.
Q. What can the consequences of poor rainwater disposal be?
A. Frequently, those first noticed are internal. Concentrated and prolonged wetting
is likely to cause damp patches and plaster mould on walls and ceilings, and the
decay of timber skirting boards, panelling etc. Investigation will often reveal
rot in concealed timbers, such as roof truss bearings beneath parapet gutters.
Commonly because of poor maintenance. Gutters, downpipes and gullies can become
blocked if leaves, moss and debris (for example, broken tiles) are allowed to
accumulate. In addition, components can corrode through lack of decoration. Gutters
may fracture where bolt fixings rust, and downpipes frequently leak at joints
where blockages hasten corrosion..Good maintenance involves regularly clearing
out rainwater fittings, particularly after the autumn leaf fall, and checking
the system for defects. Periodic redecoration of ironwork is required to inhibit
corrosion.
Q. Why might my rainwater fittings be causing problems?
A. Commonly because of poor maintenance. Gutters, downpipes and gullies can become
blocked if leaves, moss and debris (for example, broken tiles) are allowed to
accumulate. In addition, components can corrode through lack of decoration. Gutters
may fracture where bolt fixings rust, and downpipes frequently leak at joints
where blockages hasten corrosion.
Poor detailing is a further factor. Over-sized and over-fixed lead linings may
suffer fatigue, for instance. Eaves gutters supported by too few brackets can
sag. Where maintenance is neglected, bad detailing – such as excessive swan-neck
arrangements – can accelerate deterioration.
Rainwater fittings may be broken or distorted by mechanical damage. Lead downpipes
are vulnerable to knocks from passers-by at low level and ladders higher up.
Q. What maintenance should I be undertaking?
A. Good maintenance involves regularly clearing out rainwater fittings, particularly
after the autumn leaf fall, and checking the system for defects. Periodic redecoration
of ironwork is required to inhibit corrosion.
It can be advantageous to fit plastic leaf guards to gutters or wire balloons
above downpipes. Leaf guards still admit pine needles and are sometimes easily
dislodged, and material left to gather around wire balloons may cause blockages.
Where visually acceptable, overflow pipes can be introduced above hopper heads.
Snow should be cleared from parapet and valley gutters with wooden or plastic
shovels to prevent moisture seeping through joints. Alternatively, duckboards
or electric heating tapes can be provided to keep gutters clear of snow.
Fittings are best checked for leaks in heavy rain. Proprietary adhesive tape
is available for temporary repairs. Where poor access hinders maintenance, additional
hatches or fixed ladders might be considered.
Q. How should I go about redecoration?
A. Paint selection will depend, amongst other considerations, on site exposure
and the historical interest of the building or surviving early finishes. Cast
iron rainwater fittings at the SPAB’s Grade II–listed headquarters have recently
been redecorated with an oil-bound system (without white lead, legally restricted
to Grade I and II* buildings). One undercoat and one finish coat were specified.
Red lead primer (not restricted) and a base-coat were applied first to areas of
bare metalwork. Surface preparation is important and unsound old paint, rust and
millscale should be removed. Any defective gutter joints should also be re-sealed.
Care should be taken to ensure the backs of downpipes are redecorated, particularly
if of the rectangular type. It may be beneficial to fit spacers or holderbats
if access is limited.
Q. Is repair preferable to replacement?
A. Absolutely, where feasible, to retain the maximum historic fabric. Lead, wrought
iron and sometimes cast iron can be repaired with various welding techniques.
Soldered dots or patches may be used for copper. Remember fire safety, though,
when undertaking work of this kind.
Replacement, where unavoidable, should normally be on a like-for-like basis.
Inappropriate substitute materials can erode the character of a building (for
example, using uPVC instead of cast iron) or lead to premature failure (as with
certain combinations of dissimilar metals).
Some changes may be justified. Substituting cast iron with painted cast aluminium
might be acceptable where access for redecoration is exceptionally awkward. Such
work may require Listed Building Consent.
Q. Should gutters and downpipes be provided where none exist?
A. This depends upon the circumstances. Where maintenance is likely to be neglected,
existing rainwater disposal arrangements are satisfactory or new gutters and downpipes
would be hard to install unobtrusively, it may be better not to provide a new
system. Where a rainwater system is added, it should be uncomplicated. Downpipes
should be sited away from wallpaintings. Again, such work may require Listed Building
Consent.
The Repair of Historic Buildings: Advice on Principles and Methods, Bereton, C, English Heritage (1995)
Practical Building Conservation: Volume 4 - Metals, English Heritage Technical Handbook, Ashurst, J and Ashurst, N, Aldershot:
Gower Technical Press (1988)