Lime was employed in the construction of nearly all old buildings in
Britain
. An understanding of this versatile natural material is fundamental to their
conservative repair and long-term protection. Douglas Kent, the SPAB's Technical
Secretary, explains the practical advantages of tradition.
Q. What is lime?
A. The word 'lime' refers to quicklime or slaked lime, widely used to form the binder
for mortars, plasters, renders and washes prior to the mid-19th century. Quicklime is produced when limestone is heated in a kiln. Slaked lime
is obtained when this is then combined with water to create a putty (stored in
tubs), hydrate (bagged powder) or, where the reaction takes place in sand, ‘dry-slaked’
mix. Lime-based products harden by absorbing carbon dioxide to revert back to
calcium carbonate (‘carbonation’). Chemically, this is the same as the original
limestone, hence the term ‘lime cycle’.
Q. Why use lime?
A. Unlike modern products, lime-based materials let structures ‘breathe’ and move
gently – essential properties with old buildings. They also contribute to their
characteristic soft texture. Despite these advantages, building with lime is a
slow process that demands skill and patience. This led to the widespread use of
alternative materials, including Portland cement, gypsum plaster and plastic paints.
It is apparent, that these have shortcomings of their own and can seriously harm
historic fabric. Consequently, lime is enjoying a revival.
Q. What are the different types of lime?
A. There are two main types for conservation work:
· Non-hydraulic lime from relatively pure limestone. This hardens only by carbonation.
It is classified as CL under European standards. The purest is described as ‘fat’,
the less pure as ‘lean’. Impurities in the latter impart a slight hydraulicity,
but insufficient for it to be called ‘hydraulic’;
· Natural hydrauilc lime from limestone with reactive silica and aluminium impurities.
These have a harder set, as calcium silicates and aluminates form in the presence
of water in addition to any calcium carbonate from carbonation. Natural hydrauilc
lime is classified as NHL 2, 3.5 and 5.
Q. Which lime should I use?
A. The SPAB generally advocates the use of repair materials that match those used
originally. Our forefathers appreciated that the more hydraulic a lime the greater
its strength, but the lower its permeability and flexibility; so, the right balance
needed to be struck for the particular job in hand. The slow set and workability
of non- hydraulic lime, for example, is ideal for internal plasterwork. Where,
however, extra durability in early life is required, say with a moderately exposed
external wall, a weak hydraulic lime (or, if unavailable, a non-hydraulic one
with a pozzolanic additive such as tile dust) might be appropriate for pointing
or rendering.
Whereas lime putty was employed historically for plastering inside, mortar for
masonry seems to have been produced more cheaply by dry-slaking. Some companies
produce dry-slaked mixes.
Q. Is lime putty preferable to hydrated lime?
A. With hydraulic lime, there will normally be no choice. Unless a weak hydraulic
lime, it will, by definition, set is stored under water as a putty, so is almost
always supplied as bagged hydrate. Non-hydraulic lime, however, can come in either
form. Hydrated non-hydraulic lime is the standard lime widely available in builders'
merchants. Whilst this is better than no lime, non-hydraulic lime putty is preferrable
because it gives a more workable mix with superior plasticity and binding properties,
and is guaranteed to stay fresh.
Further Reading