The SPAB has recently brought out a revised edition of one of its best-selling
publications, Technical Pamphlet 5 on repointing. Ideas on what constitutes good
practice have advanced over recent years. Douglas Kent, the Society’s Technical
Secretary, focuses the central issues.
Q. What is repointing and why does it demand care?
A. Repointing is the process of taking out and replacing the mortar (‘pointing’)
from the face of a masonry joint. Done properly, this helps exclude the weather
and retard deterioration of the wall. Regrettably, repointing is commonly undertaken
unnecessarily or unsatisfactorily. Unnecessary repointing, however carefully done,
risks damage to the edges of bricks or stones, as well as the loss of valuble
clues to a building’s construction and history. Unsatisfactory repointing can
not only be visually disturbing, but harmful to the actual fabric it is intended
to protect.
Q. When is repointing necessary?
A. Repointing is premature until mortar has weathered back to a depth equivalent
to the joint width or is very loose. The lime mortar used for old buildings is
more permeable than the brick or stone, concentrating frost and salt action in
the joints. Unlike hard cementitious pointing, this protects the masonry units
because the mortar erodes in preference (in other words, is sacrificial). Irregular
weathering means only localised repointing is usually required. Repointing is
not justified simply because mortar is soft.
Q. Should I remove inappropriate hard cementitious pointing?
A. The routine use of weather-struck cement pointing in old buildings is a common
mistake. Not only is it disfiguring, but it leads, more seriously, to faster deterioration
of bricks and stones as they become the most permeable part of the wall and suffer
the greatest frost and salt action. Removal should only be attempted if a trial
indicates this can be achieved without further damage. Otherwise, the pointing
is best left to work loose.
Q. Should I normally match the existing pointing?
A. Almost always if possible, the principal exception being where inappropriate
repointing has taken place. Old pointing is often best observed in sheltered areas,
such as under eaves, and should be matched in terms of material and finish. Where
it is necessary to design a new mortar mix instead, this must be weaker than the
bricks or blocks and take into account site exposure. If in doubt about the joint
profile, a flush or nearly flush finish is frequently appropriate. The production
of mortar samples and trial panels is strongly encouraged.
Q. What pointing mortar might be suitable?
A. The binder (which should usually be lime, not cement) and aggregate (generally
sand) are selected to ensure the existing mortar is matched in colour, texture
and strength. In most cases, existing mortar can be adequately assessed from visual
inspection coupled with local knowledge.
A weak hydraulic lime binder was preferred historically for pointing, but, if
unavailable, purer local, non-hydraulic lime was used (sometimes with brick dust
or another ‘pozzolan’ to compensate). Recently, cement has been added to modify
lime mortars, but this is discouraged now a wider range of limes is obtainable.
The local aggregates used historically varied widely. Frequently, however, a
well-graded sharp sand would be suitable. The largest particle size should not
exceed one-third of the joint width.
Q. What joint finish might be suitable?
A. Unless a specialised form of pointing exists, a flush or nearly flush finish
will often be sympathetic. Many now favour finishing joints with a fuller profile
than in recent years, following historical precedent and providing better protection
to the wall. Consequently, recessed pointing, particularly with stonework, may
soon be considered a late-20th-Century fashion. Sometimes, though, there may be a case aesthetically for pressing
the mortar back, as when repointing very localised areas or where bricks and stones
have heavily eroded edges and joints would otherwise appear excessively wide.
Q. How do I minimise the risk of pointing failure?
A. A high proportion of failures occur because adverse weather is ignored. Where
possible, avoid repointing in winter. Whatever the time of year, ensure new work
is adequately protected from frost, rapid drying (by the wind or sun) and rain.
Poor preparation also causes failure. Existing mortar should normally be raked
out to a depth equivalent to twice the joint width (and deeper with wide joints).
Further Reading